TURF GRASS & SOD
Milberger’s Landscape Nursery offers the largest selection of turf grass sod available in South Central Texas. We usually carry nineteen different varieties of sod, including the newest releases of turf grass that have been tested and judged reliable in our area. We have sample lawn areas of most of the sod types that we carry. You are invited to examine and walk on these sample lawn areas to help you determine the look and feel of the turf that is most suitable for your landscape.
Milberger purchases sod from only the best growers in the state. These grasses are essentially weed and disease-free and true to the labeled variety. We do not carry grasses that are called “mixed grasses” as they do not meet our standards for reliability. New grasses are introduced regularly. The Turf Grass Industry and the US D
Professor Ambika Chandra at the
Texas A&M Turf Grass Research Center in Dallas
Milberger’s Turf Grass & Sod Price List
Effective June 1, 2018. This price list supersedes all previous price lists.
|VARIETY||FULL PALLET||1/2 PALLET|
|BERMUDA TIFWAY 419||$150.00/pallet||$90.00|
|BUFFALO GRASS 609||min 2 pallets. Fri only $220.00/pallet||Not Available|
|BUFFALO GRASS PRAIRIE||min 2 pallets. Fri only $185.00/pallet||Not Available|
|BUFFALO GRASS DENSITY||$240.00/pallet||$135.00|
|ST. AUGUSTINE RALEIGH||$1.29 PER PIECE
|ST. AUGUSTINE FLORATAM||$1.39 PER PIECE
|ST. AUGUSTINE PALMETTO||$160.00/pallet||$110.00|
|ST. AUGUSTINE FJ’S SELECT||$160.00/pallet||$110.00|
|ZOYSIA EL TORO||$240.00/pallet||$150.00|
- Delivery charge $85.00 1-19 pallets within 20 mile radius. Beyond 20-mile radius the charge is $1.50/mile round trip from nursery.
- Full pallets contain 50 square yards, 450 square feet.
- There are approximately 3.3 pieces of grass per square yard=150 pieces per pallet.
- Pieces measure approximately 16”x24”.
- Raleigh St Augustine only can be purchased by the piece. All other grasses are available in ½ or full pallet quantities only.
- PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE
Lawn Care Schedule
By Dr. Calvin Finch
There is still time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide to reduce summer weeds from germinating. This is especially important if you were bothered by sandburs and/or crabgrass. Halt, Dimension, Crabgrass Preventer, Amaze and XL are good herbicides for the job. Note that a second application should be applied in mid-June.
To be ready for the hot weather when it arrives, call in your irrigation contractor to check out and repair your system. Make sure the rain sensor is working and all leaks are repaired. Have him/her instruct you how to change the watering amounts if necessary.
Have your mower sharpened and the engine tuned up. Mow in March to keep the lawn weeds in check.
Mowing starts in earnest this month. Mow St. Augustine at 3 inches tall, Bermuda at 1.5 inches, zoysia at 2 inches tall and buffalo grass at 5 inches. Mow frequently enough that only one-third of the grass blade is removed at every mowing. Once per week is usually sufficient.
After you have mowed real lawn two times, it is time to fertilize the lawn. Use slow release lawn fertilizer. The first number is the percentage of nitrogen. Apply one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. If the fertilizer has a 19-5-9 formula, that means about 5 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet. The bag will tell you what rate to set the spreader to achieve the pounds of nitrogen.
Chlorotic grass is a common symptom of St. Augustine grass. It appears in spring when the soil is too cool for the roots to pick up iron. Chlorosis will address itself with time and a change in weather or you can apply an iron chelate product by hose-end sprayer.
Rely on the weekly watering recommendation provided by SAWS and posted in the Express News every Saturday to determine how much water to apply each week. The recommendation is based on San Antonio’s actual weather conditions and proven by over 15 years of use.
The winter weeds are trying to go to seed before the heat kills them. Keep the lawn mowed every week to reduce production of the weed seeds for next winter.
Make your second application of herbicide to prevent sandburs.
It is time to apply a soil insecticide if your lawn was attacked by grubs last year. The same insecticide will also control chinch bugs.
Watering is the key. Apply the published recommendation each week. For especially hot areas such as along the sidewalk that seem to dry out, give them a little extra water by handheld hose.
Chinch bugs will make your lawn look moth eaten. The damage usually appears on the hottest part of the lawn. The lawn drying out will cause a similar symptom. Hand water the spots every day for 2 or 3 days. If the area does not green-up it is probably caused by chinch bugs. Apply a soil insecticide.
Apply a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent winter weeds. Check the label to make sure the weeds you had last year in your yard are on the label. Rescue grass, bedstraw, dandelions, thistle, henbit and annual bluegrass are common.
Discontinue watering in the evening and let the lawn go a little dry in order to prevent brown patch fungus. If it appears anyway apply a treatment of a labeled soil fungicide.
The lawn has switched to its autumn growth mode so it is time to apply a winterizer fertilizer. Again, apply one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. The fertilizer will be utilized by the lawn for winter hardiness and a fast green-up in the spring.
November, December, January
Switch to a winter irrigation regime. Water every 3 weeks if it does not rain from now until May.
You should only have to mow every few weeks to control winter weeds.
Aerate and top dress your lawn. Use an aerator that cuts and removes a plug of soil which it places on the soil surface. The machines can be rented or the service purchased. Apply one-inch of compost after the aeration. The compost penetrates the aeration holes to bring organic material into the root zone.
It is too early to fertilize. Wait until real grass has been mowed twice.
You don’t have to spend a pile of green to have a lush lawn. Tray these tips to help you cut your lawn care costs.
DOWN SIZE: You should take a look at your landscape and figure out how much lawn space you really need to have. Then you can fill the rest of your yard with low-maintenance natural areas using native plants, groundcover and mulched beds of shrubs and flowering plants.
WATER LESS: Most of us tend to over water our lawns. If you water your lawn more thoroughly and less frequently it with help develop the stronger and deeper roots that will help the grasses survive in our prolonged drought.
DON’T RAKE IT UP: Grass clippings naturally contain the proper mix of nutrients that your lawn needs, so leave them on your lawn.
DON’T FERTILIZE TOO MUCH: Too much fertilizer results in shallow-rooted turf that needs to be watered and mowed more often.
LET IT GROW: If you keep your grass at about three inches in height it will develop deeper roots and will require less watering and mowing.