TREES & SHRUBS
Milberger’s has the largest selection of fresh, well-rooted trees in the San Antonio area. When choosing trees for your landscape your primary considerations are to select a species that is well adapted in our climatic conditions and the specific location where it will be planted.
Milberger’s has the expertise to be sure that your tree thrives in your landscape.
Kathy Finigan, My Productive Backyard
Citrus are one of those plants that I think are a must in the garden. They have beautiful dark green foliage all year, sensuously perfumed flowers at various times of the year and then produce fabulously colorful edible fruit. They really are the most perfect garden specimen. Citrus grow well in containers which gives you the ability to move them to different places in your landscape or your deck. Potted up citrus can be moved to protected areas to avoid freezes.
Like all other plants, citrus trees grown in containers plants need more watering than in ground plants because of their restricted root run and although citrus like a hot and sunny position, they also require good soil moisture levels to stay healthy and produce well.
You will need to feed your potted citrus: they are prone to micro nutrient deficiencies, which is exacerbated by the constant watering, so you need to ensure that you apply a fertilizer with a variety of trace elements especially iron manganese and zinc. For citrus in containers I like to apply the rule “A little often” In spring and early autumn I apply slow release organic pellets and then supplement this with regular liquid feeds from early spring through to late autumn. The type of liquid feed I use is dependent on the growth stage of the plant. When the plant is young, I use a high nitrogen ratio fertilizer to encourage plenty of growth which will develop into a strong branch structure. High nitrogen ratio fertilizers also discourage flower and fruiting which is necessary until the tree is large and strong enough to hold full sized fruit.
Unless you are espaliering or standardizing your citrus trees will require very little pruning.
All I do is Tip Pruning in spring to encourage bushiness. Prune to shape by removing wayward growth. Remove any dead or diseased wood.
CPS Green Shade Tree Rebate Program for 2015-2016
Through Green Shade, you can receive a $50 rebate per tree when you purchase a qualified tree and plant it in the right place to save on your energy bill. Qualifying trees are limited to a select number of drought resistant, canopy tree species in order to provide optimum shade for your home. When selecting trees, sonsider diversity to minimize possible pest and disease problems.
> Trees must be five gallons or larger and from a qualified species list.
> Trees must be purchased between Oct. 1, 2015 and April 30, 2016.
> Applications must be submitted by June 30, 2016, and must include sales receipt for trees purchased.
> Rebates of $50 for each tree are awarded on a first come, first serve basis — until program funds are exhausted.
> There is a lifetime limit of five rebates per address.
> Application must include a photocopy of the original sales receipt for trees purchased, as well as a photocopy of a recent CPS Energy bill.
CPS Energy rewards customers for planting shade trees to increase their homes’ energy efficiency.
But it’s critical to maintain your trees, in order to qualify for our Green Shade tree rebate program. See our tips:
HOW TO PLANT:
Before you dig, call 811 for free, utility locator service
Once utility lines are marked, identify tree-planting locations 10-30 feet from the building, on the west, south, and/or east sides
For each tree, dig a hole at least two times the diameter of the root ball
Always keep the top of the root ball level with surrounding grade; never put soil on top of the root ball
Water the root ball and backfill the hole completely
Apply several additional gallons of water over the entire planting zone
HOW TO WATER:
Follow the 3-2-1 method––start by watering three times per week for the first month, two times per week for the second month and one time per week for the third month, then water two times per month for the next three months and one time per month through the next growing season (March – August)
HOW TO MULCH:
Renew mulch once each year at a two-inch depth and at a radius of between 24-inches and 36-inches around the tree, for the first two years after planting
Mulch should not touch the trunk of each tree
The Versatility of the Oleander
Oleander plants are among the most versatile of shrubs, with dozens of uses in southern and coastal landscapes. They tolerate a wide range of conditions, including difficult soil, salt spray, high pH, severe pruning, reflected heat from pavements and walls, and drought. But the one thing they can’t withstand is winter temperatures below 20 degrees Fahrenheit.
Oleanders bloom from summer to fall, with fragrant flowers in shades of apricot, copper, pink, lilac, red, purple, salmon, yellow, and white, depending on variety. The plants are best adapted to the west coast, southern states, Florida, and Texas and will withstand dry conditions and wind, as well as salty, marshy soils, making them popular in coastal regions. Oleanders grow 6 to 12 feet tall and wide, and some varieties can be trained to grow into small trees up to 20 feet tall. The flowers are very fragrant. All parts of plant are poisonous to humans and animals if ingested; the plant’s sap can cause skin irritation in some individuals.
Even in the garden, oleander shrubs require minimal care. Although the shrubs are drought-tolerant, they look their best when they are watered during dry spells. However, take care not to over water them. Yellowing leaves indicate that the plant is getting too much water.
When planting an oleander select a site with full sun to light shade and well-drained soil. However, oleanders are adaptable and will withstand dry conditions as well as marshy soils. Plant in the spring or fall. Space plants 6 to 12 feet apart, depending on variety. Water plants during the summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Prune oleander after the main bloom period to encourage bushier growth and more flowers, and to reduce the size of the shrub.
From the August 2015 Issue of the Milberger Gardening South Texas newsletter.